Evolution of a Blog

This blog has evolved as I have as a maker. It starts at the beginning of my journey where I began to re-tread my tires in the useful lore of micro electronics and the open-source software that can drive them. While building solutions around micro-electronics are still an occasional topic my more recent focus has been on the 3D Printing side of making.

Sunday, March 6, 2016

Painting Tanks - Side by Side - Complete ... but for Final Touches

Not withstanding the issue with the muted colors (yes, I am spelling like a yank 'cause I am one even though I live in the UK) I still like the way the two tanks are starting to look so I thought that I would post an interim picture.

I am pretty much done at this point though I am looking for a review of what additional weathering should be done (and I need to apply a black shadow to the unit number).   I am also open to input in regards to what else I could improve without a massive repaint!

Click on Image for Larger Version












 Side by Side Notes
3D Print 
Battlefront

Nothing new at this point



Next Post in Series:  Final Final

Previous Posts in the Painting Tanks thread:

Painting Tanks - Side by Side - Camouflage On and Detailing Underway
Side by Side - Primed, Base Coated, and Ready for Camo
Side by Side - Ready to Start Painting
Side by Side - 3D Print vs Battlefront Model
First Blood

Friday, March 4, 2016

Material Choices for 3D Prints

One of the things that I am working on in the 3D Printing space are some experiments with various materials for prints.  The Ultimaker 2 is designed to print a variety of filaments and my addition of the Olson block makes it an even better platform for doing so given that I can have nozzles reserved for these special materials or even use a steel nozzle in some cases (carbon fibre or stone).

This page is the launch point for articles on the topic of material choices.

To Fan Your ABS or NOT (no, not those ABS)!
First "Real" Part Done in ColorFabb Carbon Fibre
Intrigued by Specialty Filament Materials - Part 2


Thursday, March 3, 2016

To Fan Your ABS or NOT (no, not those ABS)!

My Ultimaker 2 does a superb job of printing PLA but with ABS it has struggled to achieve high resolution prints with high detail.   I need those characteristics from ABS!  This article addresses the use of a fan to achieve the stated goal.

Using a fan on PLA is a given but using one on ABS much less so.  In fact the idea is often greeted by a surprised comment of "really? a fan on ABS?".  My lsat printer was a Makerbot Clone, the Wanhao Dplicator 4S, and I equipped it with this fan upgrade:

I can not say that I know exactly why this fan worked as well as it did but it did!  Specifically it preserved fine details while printing ABS without causing the print under the extruder to warp or pop off the build platform.  I surmise that this was because the small targeted streams of air directed at the extrusion area rather than larger flows directed all over the area under the extruder assembly.

It was this idea that I am attempting to implement with my fan ducts. I am feeling pretty confident that we are heading in the right direction with the details but have gotten concerned about part strength after a conversation on the Ultimaker Forum with gr5 who is one of the most knowledgeable folks out there.  He suggested some testing so that is what I did!

3D Print Filament - Strength Tests
Average (Kg)
PLA w/ 100% Cooling14.3
ABS w/ No Fan (215c)7.1
ABS w/ No Fan (245c)6.6
ABS w/ 40% Fan (245c) - My Mod4.8
ABS w/ 60% Fan (215) - My Mod4.6
ABS w/ 60% Fan (245) - UM Standard2.6

My test was pretty simple.  I printed a little test piece as shown below.  Place at each end to secure it to a leg of my desk and a baggage scale.  Pull and record the point where it breaks.  Recorded results on iPhone so as not to miss anything!

The results were interesting.  PLA was twice as strong as the strongest ABS which had been printed at 215c with no fan.  Strangely ABS printed at a higher temperature was a little weaker?   Using a fan did indeed weaken the ABS print but my mod caused less weakening than did the standard UM cooling solution.

A new result.  ColorFabb NGEN filament.  Just splurged on a reel and am liking it other than the price!  It had a breaking point the same as PLA, it seems as easy to print as PLA, and it has a higher glass point.

Before the Test

After the Test
Test Print- 2 Perimeter Walls

Painting Tanks - Side by Side - Camouflage On and Detailing Underway

I am a crappy damn blogger.  I meant to capture a step or two between the base coat and where we are with these photos but got side tracked with all the other little projects that I have going.  I can't seem to multi-task!

As you can see the two models have had camouflage applied, have had some weathering done,and are getting their details painted as we speak.  Too much weathering in fact.  When the camo went on it looked cartoonish as it was so bright.  So I tried to tone it down.   Not knowing what I was doing in the first place, or what I was doing in the second place, this is the result.  No going back so I will rationalize it away and say I like the muted colors.  As I said, I am currently finishing the detail painting and will also do a little more weathering.


Battlefront Model
3D Printed Model

Details on the Battlefront Model

Details on the 3D Printed Model


 Side by Side Notes
3D Print 
Battlefront

Details
Significantly fewer details but the ones that are there are very crisp
Lots and lots of details to the point of almost too many as there is only so small that one can paint!
Painting
The larger more crisp details help with the painting, but,
The paint just seems to go on to the Battlefront model which I assume is due the the more dense materials.
Modd'ing
I think that 3D Models, like the one that I printed here, will start to evolve as users make their own modifications to them
Just as modd'ing the design for a 3D Printed tank requires some skills, so does modifying a model such as the one above.  Possible but not easy!

Next Post in Series:  Side by Side - Complete ... but for Final Touches

Previous Posts in the Painting Tanks thread:

Side by Side - Primed, Base Coated, and Ready for Camo
Side by Side - Ready to Start Painting
Side by Side - 3D Print vs Battlefront Model
First Blood

Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Painting Tanks - Side by Side - Primed, Base Coated, and Ready for Camo

Here are the two tanks all primed and with their base coats and ready for some camo.  I did the same number of coats of paint starting with a grey primer.  I have no idea what I should be doing as I am new to all of this!



 Side by Side Notes
3D Print 
Battlefront

Painting
Extruded plastic has a very difference feel than does metal and resin castings.  Not unpleasantly different but different.
When I declared myself done with the base coat it was a uniform shade of Panther Yellow of the same tone as the 3D Print.  Between then and when this picture was taken the color changed a little.  Not sure what gives!

Next Post in Series:  Camouflage on and Detailing Underway.

Previous Posts in the Painting Tanks thread:

Side by Side - Ready to Start Painting
Side by Side - 3D Print vs Battlefront Model
First Blood

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Miscellaneous Photos

Printed on one of my Ultimaker 2+'s using Simplify3D.  Resolution of 80 microns with a 250 micron nozzle.  Am going to tighten the x and y belts to try and improve that top layer.  PLA printed at 192c at 1600mm/s.




What 3D Printer Would I Recommend

Have had a number of conversations about 3D Printers and what I would recommend lately so I thought that I would capture some of the thoughts from those chats.

First, if you are really in a hurry, and you have a lot of free cash, and want to get out there and buy something right away, I would recommend the Ultimaker 2+.  I have the Ultimaker 2 with part of the upgrade, the interchangeable nozzle system, that comes with the + and it is a great printer.  It is also an expensive printer.  It is also better tuned, IMHO, to printing materials other than ABS unless you either have a cover for it, or have it in a warm and climate controlled room.

So, if you want a less expensive printer than the Ultimaker 2+ then I would recommend one of the Makerbot Clones of which there are at least three and probably many more!  The one that I had was the Wanhao Duplicator 4S and it did a masterful job of printing ABS once I added a ducted fan to it (see here in this blog for details).

Finally, if you want to spend the least amount of money possible, while still getting a capable printer, then go for a Prusa kit.   Select one with a steel frame as that will serve you well for precision in the future and then learn a LOT while you construct the bloody thing.  Not for the faint hearted but easily doable by someone with a modicum of assembly skills.

There is also a Prusa I3 that you can get assembled from Wanhao for $399.  I do not have experience with this particular printer but Wanhao did a nice job on the Makerbot Clone that I mentioned above and this printer looks similar in terms of quality.

Lastly, which is even more finally than finally, there are some low cost entry level products like the M3D that would probably offer the easiest way to start printing.   They are only a little cheaper than the Prusa I3 from Wanhao but should be easier to run.  The downside is that the printer will have a smaller build volume, be slower, and less versatile assuming you stick with printing!

The above are my recommendations based on what I know...or in fact...based on what I did.  Here are what I would look for if I were researching printers from scratch:

Open is really good - First on my list of open would be to discount any printer that insists on its own filament supply!  You want to be able to buy filament on the open market and not be restricted to what is available in your specific cartridge.  You may still end up preferring an expensive supplier over a cheap commodity but at least you have that choice.  Second on my list of open would be the firmware that drives the printer.  The open choices are going to have the largest community to draw on and that can be important when and if you have a problem.

Rigid frames are really good - The more rigid the frame that supports and encloses your printer the better as this is important for accuracy and long term dependability.  If you build a Prusa get one with a steel frame!

Heated build plates are good - Not essential but definitely handy even for PLA as it does help with platform adhesion and subsequent release!

Being able to print ABS can be good - I think that PLA is a great material to print with for a number of reasons.  It is a lot easier, faster, and in my experience better for detailed work, that ABS.  It is also bio-degradable and does not smell when printing.  It does not require the high heat of ABS.  My problems with PLA are that it will degrade and it is sensitive to heat so some things are not right for it!  My other issue with it revolves around prints that need support.  I find PLA support to be much harder to remove than ABS support.

Enclosed can be good - If you plan on printing with ABS then you will need an enclosed printer unless your work area has a very controlled environment.   Mine certainly did not and since the Ultimaker is partially open I had to buy second party add-on covers.  More about this here.  The bottom line of this point combines with the point above...do you really need to be able to print ABS?  If not then I do not think that you need an enclosed printer.  This opens up a lot of options.

Two extruders are not needed - I don't know this for a fact but I would be willing to bet that 98% of the printers sold with two extruders never use the capability of having those two extruders.  It is bloody difficult to get one extruder working perfectly and to get two of them singing together is that much harder.  In addition to the cost, it also adds weight to the extruder assembly and I just don't see the need for it...and I really tried with my Wanhao.  Now there are some really good two extruder printers out there and I would 'def buy one...but I would not have two extruders as a requirement.

Active cooling is very good - The first Wanhao Duplicator 4S printers shipped with a mother board that did not support active cooling.  This has been rectified now but I had to wire my own manual power supply and switch to be able to install the cooling solution that I mention above.  Active cooling is not needed for all kinds of printing but can be essential for some.

Wireless is not essential - Wireless is a nice to have not something that should be high on the list to steer you from a printer that other wise meets your requirements.  If you really want wireless you can get an SD card that enables that capability.  Even with wireless you still need to visit the printer as few of them have arms.  BTW, if you are going to do short prints across USB fine, but for long prints, do them from the SD card!

Manual leveling of a build plate is not hard - once you get used to it anyway!  This is one of those requirements that I would put as more nice to have than essential.   Automatic leveling may become the standard but it is not now and making this a requirement will exclude a lot of good printers.

Strong user community is really good - It is amazing how much support you can get from the user community.   The stronger the community around a printer the better.  If not around the printer, then around the type of printer.  For example a Prusa user can go to the Rep Rap forum and find a lot of other Prusa users.  A Makerbot clone user can go to a Makerbot forum and find help.  Etc.

Noise is the nature of the game - You put four servos to work and you are going to make some noise.  The Ultimakers have a reputation of being quiet...but they are still noisy.  I don't really see this as a requirement.  Your spouse is still going to complain.

Easily interchangeable nozzles are epic - Game changing, even life altering!  But I am not sure that you can really make this a requirement as not many printers make this easy.  Possible maybe but not easy.  Hence I put it last.   On the other hand if you do have the capability you will wonder how you ever got by with out it!  Read more here.

I think the above sums up the most important points that come to mind.

For the best reviews of 3D Printers that you will find anywhere check out those on 3D Hubs.  These are reviews by people that are serious enough about printers to be selling their printing services.

3D Hubs Printer Reviews