Many of my projects combine two of my interests, 3D Printing and Micro Electronics but this one combines three! in this case the extra one is barbecuing in that I have gotten a new ceramic grill, a Kamado Joe, and am building a heat control unit for it.
The 3D printed elements of it are the enclosure for a fan and a shutter that will be used to direct air into the grill and a case for the electronics that drive the airflow. The electronics will consist of an Arduino on a custom designed circuit board that is a daughter board to a Raspberry Pi Zero. the Arduino will run firmware that will slowly restrict airflow as a temperature is reached while the raspberry will provide the graphical user interface wirelessly on the home network.
Wednesday, August 8, 2018
Monday, April 9, 2018
N-Scale Drawbridge - Project in Progress
This is a project in process that needs a home. I started thinking I would do a diorama but have neither the time nor the space.
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| It is loosely based on this prototype but I've taken creative liberties to make it easier to print as a 3D model. |
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| not printed the second tower but obviously I would if somebody purchased the model. I would provide the second tower is parts that would need to be assembled. |
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| The bridge is two tracks wide but height is closer to scale then would be necessary to accommodate some of the tallest rolling stock. |
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| My vision was that the counterweight will rise and fall with the bridge |
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| here you can see the attached points for cables. |
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| My biggest regret is spending so much time on rivets and not making the line straight! |
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| Girders are not through holed for Ease of printing purposes |
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| Counter weight would rise and fall as did the prototype. |
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| Top showing what I was thinking for lifting |
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| Close up of what I intended for lifting |
I would like to see this bridge in a layout and will give it to anyone that is actively working on a layout and that will commit to using it (and will post pictures). In the ideal case I would like to see a donation to the MS Society for whatever amount a recipient of the bridge feels is worth while.
Wednesday, April 4, 2018
Using the NanoDLP Mask Generation Wizard
There doesn't seem to be a good document out there on how to use the NanoDLP mask generation wizard someone going to do a quick one that at least provides an overview.
The first thing you need is a meter that can read the UV light coming from the printer. There are number of options discussed elsewhere on this blog. You can whip one up using a voltmeter, (with a battery, a resistor, and a photoresistor), you could use one based on an Arduino microprocessor (with a resistor and a photoresistor), or you could use a commercial device. As the readings are relative to each other it doesn't really matter what you use!
You also need to understand the screen orientation as represented by NanoDLP relative to the actual printer. This article should help.
Of course you should also understand conceptually what you are trying to do! A mask is a grayscale image that evens out exposure from the less bright areas to the bright center. The mask will be clear at the edges where the light doesn't reach as well as the center where it will be dark. The wizard lets you measure points on the screen and adjust them so that they are all at the same level of brightness. It then generates a mask based on those readings.
As this is just an overview I'm not going to talk about the details of creating a mask as you should be able to figure that out by messing with the wizard. In general what you need to do is display the grid of cells of the size that you will use. Find the one that is the dimmest, usually one of the corners. Adjust all the other cells to the same reading as that dim cell. Generate the mask!
I believe the new is diversion of the wizard allows you to export a CSV file that represents the mask. My D7 is currently in pieces being upgraded so I am not sure of this. If indeed it does you should save one of these exports! I would also recommend getting the image file that is generated by the wizard from the RPI and saving it on your workstation. You can then upload it at your leisure and use it only when it is needed as opposed to all the time with longer exposure that goes with it.
The first thing you need is a meter that can read the UV light coming from the printer. There are number of options discussed elsewhere on this blog. You can whip one up using a voltmeter, (with a battery, a resistor, and a photoresistor), you could use one based on an Arduino microprocessor (with a resistor and a photoresistor), or you could use a commercial device. As the readings are relative to each other it doesn't really matter what you use!
You also need to understand the screen orientation as represented by NanoDLP relative to the actual printer. This article should help.
Of course you should also understand conceptually what you are trying to do! A mask is a grayscale image that evens out exposure from the less bright areas to the bright center. The mask will be clear at the edges where the light doesn't reach as well as the center where it will be dark. The wizard lets you measure points on the screen and adjust them so that they are all at the same level of brightness. It then generates a mask based on those readings.
As this is just an overview I'm not going to talk about the details of creating a mask as you should be able to figure that out by messing with the wizard. In general what you need to do is display the grid of cells of the size that you will use. Find the one that is the dimmest, usually one of the corners. Adjust all the other cells to the same reading as that dim cell. Generate the mask!
I believe the new is diversion of the wizard allows you to export a CSV file that represents the mask. My D7 is currently in pieces being upgraded so I am not sure of this. If indeed it does you should save one of these exports! I would also recommend getting the image file that is generated by the wizard from the RPI and saving it on your workstation. You can then upload it at your leisure and use it only when it is needed as opposed to all the time with longer exposure that goes with it.
Monday, April 2, 2018
3D Printed Tiles for Terraforming Mars Game
This is an auction for a set of 3D Printed "enhancements" for the terraforming Mars game. All proceeds from this auction will go to support my wife's run in the London Marathon on the MS Society team. I am not using the eBay charities functionality so that the donation will be credited to the right place within the MS Society.
Link to the eBay Auction
The set consists of game tiles, the markers for Generation, Heat, and O2, a case for all of the afore mentioned bits and a direction coin for drafting.
The tiles are as follows:
The special titles are as follows:
Note that this set of tiles is being sold with the full approval of the author given that the proceeds are going to the MS Society.
Link to the eBay Auction
Link to the eBay Auction
The set consists of game tiles, the markers for Generation, Heat, and O2, a case for all of the afore mentioned bits and a direction coin for drafting.
The tiles are as follows:
- 9 ocean tiles
- 16 city tiles
- 25 green space tiles
- 11 special tiles
The special titles are as follows:
- Borer area
- Business district
- Capital city
- Industrial area
- Lava flows
- Natural Park
- Nature reserve
- Nuclear containment area
- Rights area
- Two mining areas
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| Complete Ready for Shipping |
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| Complete Set |
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| Close up of Greenery Tiles (Matt PLA) |
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| Special Tiles |
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| Closeup of City Tiles |
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| Ocean Tiles |
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| Direction Coin for Drafting as well as O2, Temperature, and Generation Markers (printed with CopperFill and then polished. |
Note that this set of tiles is being sold with the full approval of the author given that the proceeds are going to the MS Society.
Link to the eBay Auction
Friday, March 2, 2018
My Powered Chair and 3D Printing
I don't think that there is a mention in this blog that identifies me as being disabled. I am fighting MS and have progressed to needing a wheelchair to move around easily as muscle control and fatigue combine to make mobility a challenge. Luckily I could afford one of the best powered chairs out there, the Quickie Jive Up, to meet my needs. There is no doubt about it when I say that this is the Mercedes of powered chairs. I say Mercedes as the manufacturer is Sunrise Medical and they are in Germany. I say Mercedes and not BMW (my previous cars) as Sunrise Medical is near their headquarters and not in Bavaria. If I could drive a Mercedes I would but since I can't at least I am lucky enough to be able to afford the Jive Up.
The chair is based on the Quickie Jive M which has a mid-wheel drive and an adjustable seat all controlled by a joystick and or some buttons. The mid-wheel allows the chair to turn in its own length and the suspension that the chair sits on makes for a decent ride. The seat is adjustable from sitting to laying flat. To this the JIve Up adds the ability to stand with some useful positions in between.
Yes, it is a monster! It looks even bigger than it actually is due to it being in a position call "transition" which helps me get out of it and into my office chair (or other chairs and seats). It can continue to raise the seat until I am standing. It is those extra servos and controls that make it so bloody expensive. It is capable of 6mph and can run on streets legally. A battery and motor upgrade allows for 8mph but at the expense of torque so I went with this one.
It has greatly improved my life already in that I can be much more useful to myself and Sara compared to being in a traditional wheelchair or on crutches. I can actually carry coffee in one had while I drive with the other. Believe me when I say that small things matter. One of the positions the chair offers is between sitting and standing and is one that I use most frequently in the kitchen. With it I can much more easily get things done that would otherwise be a struggle.
This does not even begin to touch on the ability that the chair will give me to get out and about this spring...combined with a new car to carry it.
This will not come as a surprise to anyone with a 3D Printer, or anyone that has read this blog for that matter, but within minutes of having it I was already thinking of how to modify and enhance it. The first thing that I designed were two brackets that can hold my grabber for when I inevitably drop something. This is a frequent occurrence as I have lost some coordination in my hands.
Soon after that it became clear that the arm holding the controller could be improved. The one that came with the chair was very adjustable but came at the expense of a little added width. So I designed one that was the right length and orientation for me, that included places for the two buttons that I had purchased for the chair, and was no wider than the chair.
Having done the controller arm I then did a mount for the other arm that I intend to be interchangeable. You can see in the photo with the controller. Right now the one inserted into the mount is for my iPhone. As you can see in the picture there is a charging cable that leads back to the chairs battery compartment where I have installed a 24v-5v voltage converter that provides the 5v power to four USB ports.
The last two additions had nothing to do with printed plastic but add convenience. First, a saddle bag that fits perfectly under the right armrest. Second, a general purpose shoulder bag that fits perfectly across the back of the chair (not shown). Third, and finally, a retractable seat belt replacing the non-retractable version that came with the chair (also not shown).
The chair is based on the Quickie Jive M which has a mid-wheel drive and an adjustable seat all controlled by a joystick and or some buttons. The mid-wheel allows the chair to turn in its own length and the suspension that the chair sits on makes for a decent ride. The seat is adjustable from sitting to laying flat. To this the JIve Up adds the ability to stand with some useful positions in between.
It has greatly improved my life already in that I can be much more useful to myself and Sara compared to being in a traditional wheelchair or on crutches. I can actually carry coffee in one had while I drive with the other. Believe me when I say that small things matter. One of the positions the chair offers is between sitting and standing and is one that I use most frequently in the kitchen. With it I can much more easily get things done that would otherwise be a struggle.
This does not even begin to touch on the ability that the chair will give me to get out and about this spring...combined with a new car to carry it.
This will not come as a surprise to anyone with a 3D Printer, or anyone that has read this blog for that matter, but within minutes of having it I was already thinking of how to modify and enhance it. The first thing that I designed were two brackets that can hold my grabber for when I inevitably drop something. This is a frequent occurrence as I have lost some coordination in my hands.
Soon after that it became clear that the arm holding the controller could be improved. The one that came with the chair was very adjustable but came at the expense of a little added width. So I designed one that was the right length and orientation for me, that included places for the two buttons that I had purchased for the chair, and was no wider than the chair.
Having done the controller arm I then did a mount for the other arm that I intend to be interchangeable. You can see in the photo with the controller. Right now the one inserted into the mount is for my iPhone. As you can see in the picture there is a charging cable that leads back to the chairs battery compartment where I have installed a 24v-5v voltage converter that provides the 5v power to four USB ports.The last two additions had nothing to do with printed plastic but add convenience. First, a saddle bag that fits perfectly under the right armrest. Second, a general purpose shoulder bag that fits perfectly across the back of the chair (not shown). Third, and finally, a retractable seat belt replacing the non-retractable version that came with the chair (also not shown).
Monday, February 19, 2018
Micro Studio - Photographing Tiny 3D Prints
The level of detail printed by my SLA technology is such that a macro lens is essential if you actually want to see the finest of those details. I have been using a macro lens attached to my iPhone for this with pretty good results as described by a previous post. I may have even gone a little further than I needed to set up a mini studio!
What the iPhone solution delivers in terms of convenience though is lost in quality. Lack of depth of field makes focus across any distance problematic and the various forms of optical distortion caused by tiny lenses is not a help either. Enter my SLR. I have Canon SLR and a macro lens and macro flash that I had purchased a while back. I have never really taken the time to set it up for easy capture of the small models that I print until now.
Here is the my setup:
What the iPhone solution delivers in terms of convenience though is lost in quality. Lack of depth of field makes focus across any distance problematic and the various forms of optical distortion caused by tiny lenses is not a help either. Enter my SLR. I have Canon SLR and a macro lens and macro flash that I had purchased a while back. I have never really taken the time to set it up for easy capture of the small models that I print until now.
Here is the my setup:
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| Woeking Bits |
- 3D Printed stand for the camera and macro lens
- The actual camera and macro lense
- Rotating platform for the object to be photographed
- Elevator to raise or lower the floor on which the subject will sit.
- Backdrop holding paper that could be white or black
- PC (or Mac in this case) running Canon's EOS Utility
Close-up of the working bits 
EOS Utility Console 
Captured Image
Friday, February 9, 2018
Leveling the Moai
One of the two complaints that I have stated in regards to the Moai concerns the leveling process. Standing a big and heavy printer on its head does not sound like a good idea! I play with a couple of different vats and I have found that they are different enough to demand re leveling (unless you only print at 100um). This would become a pain...beyond pain even! As I worked with the printer, however, I was able to come to terms with a decent process.
The first part of the solution was this article being published on the Moai Wiki. That led to a couple of refinements.
If you are starting fresh go ahead and turn the printer on its head. Remove the four leveling bolts completely. Print four of these knobs from Thingiverse. Note that you need to do some test prints to ensure the knobs fit the bolts securely. As in you should need to pound them on. Once each bolt has a knob put the bolts back on the printer and do the leveling with the paper sheet and all. Turn the printer back over!
The second part of the solution is to print the test file from this article (here is a direct link). Measure each of the cylinders and record the measurements in your copy of this Google Sheet. Each knurl of the knobs that you now have on your printer represents 1/8th of a turn. With practice you can turn these knobs pretty precisely just by feel. You can also do this through the opening where the vat sits and without removing a side panel from the printer!
As always, remember to take the build plate off the printer before removing the vat!
The final part of the solution is to come up with a way to roughly level things without turning the printer over. Here is my technique. Set the Z Reset Position to something like 985 or so. Maybe even lower (which means the plate will be further from the PDMS). Let it move into position. Note whether or not the platform moved when the build plate settled. What you are looking for is the first point at which you detect movement. The Z Reset Position that I use is the one that is one lower than the first movement one.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When the current version of firmware starts the Moai it does so with a raise of the build platform and then a tilting of the vat. Why this order is inexplicable to me! It will harm your PDMS and should be the other way around. Lacking that you can protect your vat by starting a print and then turning the printer off after the initial tilt starts and gets PDMS separation. When your turn your printer back on it will be gentle to the PDMS.
The first part of the solution was this article being published on the Moai Wiki. That led to a couple of refinements.
If you are starting fresh go ahead and turn the printer on its head. Remove the four leveling bolts completely. Print four of these knobs from Thingiverse. Note that you need to do some test prints to ensure the knobs fit the bolts securely. As in you should need to pound them on. Once each bolt has a knob put the bolts back on the printer and do the leveling with the paper sheet and all. Turn the printer back over!
The second part of the solution is to print the test file from this article (here is a direct link). Measure each of the cylinders and record the measurements in your copy of this Google Sheet. Each knurl of the knobs that you now have on your printer represents 1/8th of a turn. With practice you can turn these knobs pretty precisely just by feel. You can also do this through the opening where the vat sits and without removing a side panel from the printer!
As always, remember to take the build plate off the printer before removing the vat!
The final part of the solution is to come up with a way to roughly level things without turning the printer over. Here is my technique. Set the Z Reset Position to something like 985 or so. Maybe even lower (which means the plate will be further from the PDMS). Let it move into position. Note whether or not the platform moved when the build plate settled. What you are looking for is the first point at which you detect movement. The Z Reset Position that I use is the one that is one lower than the first movement one.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When the current version of firmware starts the Moai it does so with a raise of the build platform and then a tilting of the vat. Why this order is inexplicable to me! It will harm your PDMS and should be the other way around. Lacking that you can protect your vat by starting a print and then turning the printer off after the initial tilt starts and gets PDMS separation. When your turn your printer back on it will be gentle to the PDMS.
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